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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.